Just how much has fashion changed from the 20th century til' today!!!

Just how much has fashion changed within the last century. Fashion can be defined as a style of dress that is popular during a certain time or era. "At the beginning of the twentieth century, fashion was always made-to-measure," (London). Actresses from the London theater had also had an influence on fashion. Although Paris dressmakers still set the pace, in 1900, their counter parts in London were beginning to challenge french supremacy. Lady Duff-Gordon, as known as 'Lucile', was the first British woman to achieve an international reputation as a fashion designer. During the Edwardian era, lifestyles of women were increasingly demanding making fashion uncomfortable and complicated to wear. Opening up a small outfitters shop in Basingstoke Hampshire, England, "Thomas Burberry's clothes for women were ahead of their times. His sport clothes allowed women greater ease of movement , while motoring, walking, or playing golf," (london).
Shortly before World War I, straighter clothes were being worn by most fashionable women. Straighter clothes allowed the natural figure its shape. When the war happened in 1914, it hit many Americas hard. "It was the largest war the world had seen yet" (wwI). Women began taking on the jobs left behind by the men going to fight in the armed forces. Wars and bad economy bring plain fashion that stays for a while. But fortunately enough, women now had extra money which enabled them to now afford the fashionable clothes that they wanted. "Munition workers, for example could now afford fur coats made out of seal or musquash," (london). This put fashion within reach of many Londoners. After WWI ended in 1918, fashion was less openly extravagant. The era of mass production in the clothes industry had arrived (fashion-era). This new invention introduced rayon making glamorous inexpensive. Rayon dyed well and looked similar to and felt like silk. Therefore dresses could be produced for a fraction of the cost of real silk.

1920's
"Many designers started designing for the London theater, such as Norman Hartnell, who opened his business in London in 1923," (London). "Norell learned about high fashion at an early age from his mother, who subscribed to french fashion magazines, and dressed in avant garde styles," (norell). Considered the father of American high fashion, Norell, created designs that were sophisticated, dramatic, and of the highest workmanship, (norell).
For the first time in the 1920's, backless dresses were fashionable at evening parties. The style and cuts of women's clothing during this decade changed drastically. It became more acceptable to reveal bare flesh. Swim suits became skimpier and shorts were being worn by both sexes.

As you can see fur coats are not just a thing of the past. Here is two African American middle class women pictured in the 1920's, looking very stylish wearing fur coats.

Now that's high fashion.

The classic American fashion that defined the 1920's has become the look in the year 2008. Adding sparkle to the evening, the dress worn by Kate Moss, immediately reminds one of the 20's flapper style.

What better decade to draw inspiration from! Pictured below is an image of the famous R and B singer, Usher, sporting a double-breasted waist-coat, and two toned shoes, (left) and (right) a nice top hat, white gloves, a cane, and a longer jacket.

The Great Depression/1930's
When the U.S. stock-market crashed in 1929, the 1930s was hard times. "The Great Depression was unprecedented in its length and in the wholesale poverty and tragedy it inflicted on society" (great d). The Depression curbed extravagant dressing. In the United States, at the depth there were 16 million unemployed. The GNP declined from $103,828,000,000 in 1929 to $55,760,000,000 in 1933 (great d). Fashion is affected in many ways. Inventions and good economy brings many changes. During the depression men and women were less likely to go out for couture even if they could afford it. It was seen as insevsitive to the times, so fashion houses started producing fashionable clothes at moderate prices.

Although women did not go out for couture during the depression, fashion moved back fom the practical, shapeless cuts of the 1920's, to more ladylike outfits that emphasized the female form. "Budding rounded busts and waistline curves were seen and hair became softer and prettier as hair perms improved" (1930's). Clothes were feminine, sweet and tidy. Skirts were frequently longer at the back than the front. Some of the clothes were so stylish that they could be worn today.
"By 1938, the Du Port company was producing commerical nylon and by 1939, making knitted hosiery" (1930s). Later it was given the commercial name Nylon. Eventually Nylons were available in 15 denier and sought particularly in the second war. Fashion was very sober in the 1930's. Nylon stockings replaced Rayon. "Colors were somber, black, brown, navy, gray, and green. Hollywood provided dreamy luxury in stark contrat to everyday reality" (1930s).
Even though the 30's fashion trends were very sober, many of today's top fashion designer's are finding inspiration in the fluid forms of the 30' s for their 2008 collections. Such as, the fall 2008 ready-to-wear line from Jogn Galliano. His line features 1930's inspired bias-cut gowns.

Fall fashions from Baby Phat also hearken back to the glamour of the Depression Era.

The Neiman Marcus fall 2008 accessories line features 1930's inspired designs as well.

1940's
"On September 3, 1939, England and France declared war on Germany," (wwII). On June 14, 1940, Paris fell to Germany. During the war, the Germans considered moving the french couture housed to Berlin. Berlin would be known as the fashion capital, (fashion-era). On December 8, 1941, the United States offically entered World War 2. Clothes, like food were rationed durint the war. Limits were set on skirt lengths and the number of pleats permitted to restrict the amount of material used. Prior to WWII, New York fashion designers made the trek across the Atlantic ocean, attending french fashion shows every year. Once the Germans occupied Paris and the United States stationed battleships in the Atlantic ocean the New York designers were cut off from Paris haute couture. A comfortable alternative to 1940's fashion came into play. With the war going on denim dungarees, a shirt, and head scarf as worn by Rosie the Riveter.

Rosie was the iconic figure used by the U.S. government to encourage women to work in factories in support of war efforts. In 1945, the end of the war and rationing in America, Americans finally saw the development of the style that is most often associated with the swing era. The jazz era's wide suit, hugely popular in Harlem in the 1930's, was worn predominately by African-American and Mexican-American youths in the 1940's.

"In 1947, Christian Dior presented a fashion look with a fitted jacket, a nipped waist, and full claf length skirt. It was a dramatic change from wartime austerity styles," (fashion-era). Dior changed women's fashion to a more softer, feminine, and romantic image.

1950's
With the war being over, fashion was back with a vengence! Promoting easy wash care and wear qualities, Many of the 1950's fabrics were synthesised from prochemicals. "Fashion history shows that styles and garment of the fifties and sixities were revoluntionised by new fabrics. Nylon (polyamide), crimplene (polyester), and orlon (acylic/polyacrylonitrile), were all easy to look after and were soon affordable" (fashion-era). Many people in the UK had their first nylon goods from Americas in parcels sent by American pen pals (fashion-era).

The 50's is a very influential fashion period, that still affects fashion today. Think about school children. The dress code for most public schools today is navy blue or black bottoms and white tops. In the 50's school kids looked very similar to that.

This was an exciting decade in the world of fashion. The 50's is the period when rock and roll was born, and today not only does everyone want to party like a rockstar, but they are beginning to dress like one too. Young men are wearing skinny jeans quite often. The clothing line Ed Hardy, as well as True Religion, that once was rocker wear has not became popular for everyone.

1960's
"In the 21st century, it is easy to assiociate all the 1960's fashion with short skirts, but the short skirt was not really worn by many until 1966 and not nationwide until 1967" (fashion-era).
In the early sixties, pleated skirts set on hip yoke basque were worn with shott sleeved over blouses. Mini's really became acceptable with the introduction of pantyhose, known as tights today. "The fashion mini-skirt became one of the icons that symbolized this era" (fashion-era).

"Outdoor looks were achieved by using fabric like wool, terylene or cotton gavarsine, corderoy, leather, suede, or mock, suede fabrics made up as car coats" (fashion-era). Flat boots is another thing that became popular in the 60's. With the dresses being so short, flat boots began rising up the leg eventually reaching the knee.

1970's
It's peace, love, and freedom in the seventies. Also in fashion. 70's fashion began where the 60's left off. While mini skirts were still popular, 70's fashions took on a multitude of different styles and influences.

As well as the hippie style.
Longer dresses inspired by the hippie era of the late sixities, were also in fashion, with paisley or floral patterns being popular.

Two trends defined the 70's in a fashion sense, flares and platform shoes. Flares were worn by both men and women. Platforms generally were worn by women and fashionable men.

It's a touch of the 70's. Jennifer Lopez stylishly mixes up elements of the 70's with her floppy hat and platform boots (left), as well as her fringed poncho and knee-length boots (right).

Lenny Kravitz draws his wardrobe inspiration from the groovy early 1970s.

1980's
The 80's was so much about being over the top, big hair and tight jeans. The fashion silhouette was a very distinctive one. Both men and women began to wear looser shirts and tighter close fitted pants, a total reverse of the 70's trend.

1990's
The transition from bold, over the top styles of the 1980's, to the more quiet styles of the 90's was a huge one. People began dressing more relaxed and dressing down became an acceptable norm.

1990's fashion was greatly influenced by tv, hollywood, and the music industry, just like today. Jackets became fitted, shoulder pads flattened and soon disappeared. Fashion trends also included oversized baggy jeans, resembling the hip hop look.
Fashion in the new millennium has taken trends from multiple decades in the 20th century. Fur coats and or minks are popular in he winter months for those who can afford it just as those in the 1920's. Tidy everyone wants to be a Rock star. So people are dressing more and more like one everyday, as if this were the 50's, when rock first started. Short skirts and dresses with long knee boots is very popular again today as it was in the 60's. As well as peace, love, and freedom in the 70's, people today are becoming their own trend setters, not caring about what others may think or say. Although the 80's is looked at like the worst decade in fashion history, leggings has made a huge come back. In today's economy we are almost in another recession, almost like the Great Depression. Thousands are being laid off from their jobs. Eventually this will start to effect the way people dress. Ss one can see fashion does change over time but as they say, "History repeats itself!"

Works Cited

Thomas, Pauline. "1930s Fashion History Stylish Thirties". Stylish Thirties Fashion
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